PALACE-NOW-FOUND: Finding the Palace of Love and Hope

Remember my blog post about a "lost" palace?http://exercisingmywritesbyespiecorpuz.blogspot.com/2014/11/getting-lost-in-sirindhorn-park.html

Hubby and I returned to Sirindhorn Park in Cha-am to bike around. It was breezy but the afternoon was warm.  After one round I decided biking wasn't really for me as I panic and lose my balance each time another biker gets too close.  Hubby couldn't get me to bike one more round so we parked our rented bikes beside an arch covered with vines.  

Just at the entrance, after walking past the souvenir shop and through an archway guarded by a couple of naked bronze statues, one on each side.

Be welcomed by this sight as you pass through the vine-covered arched entrance. Be enveloped by the feeling of serenity and oneness with nature.  The sound of the sea. Tje rustling of the leaves. The chirping of the birds and other insects. The sounds of silence.

We enter the archway and find ourselves at the entrance of an expansive grassy grounds shadowed by giant acacia and ficus trees. The ficus trees look ominous with their intrinsically-gnarled roots that tell of age. Following the paved walkway a quaint structure looms in front of us. It is made of several individual wooden cottages on wooden stilts or legs and are interconnected by roofed path walks made of wooden planks.  These cottages comprise the Palace and yes, we are on the Palace grounds!

      

This is it!  The Mrigadayavan Palace. Simple and dainty, but once held the strongest power of the nation.  The King lived here with his family and staff during summertime.  The Palace consists of three big cottages or pavilions that looked exactly the same, connected by  covered walkways that allow one a full view of the sea.

From the entrance to the grounds, the Palace peeps through the trunks of  a mixture of young and very old trees.  Don't expect a sparkling structure. Made of teak wood and  standing on hundred stilts, this one's different from all other palaces I've ever seen and imagined. 

Old trees with trunks covered with prayer envelopes.  The whole area is sheltered with tall, verdant  trees, making the otherwise humid day a fine day to stroll on the grounds.

Excitedly,  we looked for the entrance to the Palace, which proved quite a challenge because we couldn't read the printed signs. Some local guests helped us by pointing to the right cottage. What we thought to be the entrance was actually the exit! 

So at the right cottage,  we take off our shoes and leave our cameras behind. Barefoot, we climb the stairs and saunter somberly, as there are signs that request guests to keep silent in respect for locals who are there to meditate.  Not all cottages are open for viewing, but then I have the feeling that these closed areas are not any different from the ones we have already seen.

Peeping into each one-room affair  living quarter with divisions for private activities, one wonders how the occupants spent their time here, growing up and growing old.  This palace had been home to the royal family and King Rama VI's  concubines. One pavilion was for the exclusive use of the king; a second exclusive for the king's wife, Queen Indrasakdi Sachi, and her court; and a third, for multi-purpose functions.

These days this palace functions as a museum to showcase the life of the old royal family. Some of the displays include a wedding gown, beds, bathrooms, tea sets, musical instruments, etc.  The focal point of this expansive museum was the huge dining hall that used to house a hundred diners--royal families, extended relatives, the concubines, foreign dignitaries, guests and probably the consorts. An antiquated  menu for dinner is on display by the doorway and surprisingly, the whole course from appetizer to dessert was of French cuisine prepared by, of course, a French chef.

The whole structure is old and  is undergoing preservation efforts initiated by King Bhumibol,  Some areas at this time are cordoned to ward off guests because of on-going reconstruction activities.

The living quarters are elevated from the ground on hundreds and hundreds of pillars.

The covered walk that goes all around one building and leads to the two other buildings.

The whole structure is well-ventilated and the clean air coming from the ocean goes through open-wide windows, high ceilings and fretwork adorning the the walls.

The architecture of the whole expanse of building is very appropriate to a life by the sea. The whole place welcomes the  sea breeze to pass through and ventilate the quarters.  The walls washed with white and pastel blue or pink do not clash at all with the natural green of the surroundings.  I could imagine an evening stroll along the bridge to be so romantic, or an early morning walk at the Cha-am beach with the view of the Gulf of Thailand spread across the horizon, meeting up with the clear blue sky.

The tour thus ended, we reclaim our belongings and trace our way out of the Palace grounds, back to the beautiful entrance.  Along the way we find a flowing fountain area concealed behind thick vines.  This is a lovers' garden, definitely. I could almost visualize a youthful king professing his amorous intentions to a young queen or any of his concubines as they sit in one of those whitewashed benches in front of the fountain. No wonder this palace is called the Palace of Love and Hope.

Before one gets to the palace, or leaves the palace as is in our case,  one passes by this rotund park ensconced within a wire fence covered with vines.  At the center is a flowing fountain that gives the spot an impression of romantic dalliances at any time of day.

My pride may have been wounded by my failure at my attempts to like biking, but the tour around the Palace-now-found healed the broken spirits completely. :-)

Portraits from Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

One's travel to Thailand is never complete without a side trip to one of its floating markets, particularly the largest and most-visited by tourists, the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market in Ratchaburi Province,  about 100 kilometers away, or roughly two hours' ride from Bangkok.  How do you say the name? Read: damnernsadwak.

Once you get there you are welcomed by stalls and stalls of  mostly Thai products: handmade crafts, souvenirs, bags, purses, key chains and other trinkets, and local homemade delicacies.  You must know how to haggle because there's a different price set for tourists, expectedly exorbitantly higher than what the vendors would give to the locals.

There's a large market hall across the canal from the parking lot side, half of it occupied by a very fashionable lady whom everybody calls Madam Paew.  All the goods sold in her turf  are of fixed price.  So you can probably benchmark  from there when you go shopping in other stalls down the canal.   But it's always advisable to haggle lower than half until you come to a compromise with the vendor.  Be polite.

By the way, it's also a must to hire a paddle boat--rowboat/long-tailed boat-- (cheaper, around 100 to 150 baht) or a motor boat (200 to 300 baht) that will take you down the water-alleys where there are more beautiful products sold.  Enjoy haggling in every stall.  Just remember, whenever you inquire about an item, it will be a bit difficult to break away if you decide not to buy.  The vendors are quite persistent and the boat won't leave unless you order the paddler to move on.

There are many other floating markets around Thailand, many of them authentic and traditional, meaning they have been there for about a hundred years old, or thereabout, mainly for trade than for tourism.  Many of them have been rarely visited by foreign tourists.  As the grand floating markets like the Damnoen Saduak and the Amphawa have become main tourist destinations, they have also become busy and too crowded, hence attention is now turning toward those quaint old little riverside markets that still show the regular way of life of people living in the banks and using the water thoroughfares to commute from home to market and other places.  Some vacationers do prefer places  where one can just hang out, shop a bit, have a quick boat tour, and sip coffee in the quiet. 

Getting Lost In Sirindhorn Park

Yet another of what is touted  as "Royal Initiatives," the  Sirindhorn International Environmental Park is situated inside Rama VI Military Camp in Amphoe, Chaam.  As the name suggests, it is one of those natural parks in this  side of Thailand that had been built to conserve and showcase nature in the raw. Purported to be a natural venue for learning, the park was built to be such a place where students and teachers come to discover upclose and personal about science, energy conservation, flora and fauna, mangrove rehabilitation and such other concerns.  Inside the vast compound are structures devoted to energy conservation, a  museum where documents and prototypes of such undertakings are exhibited.

Can you read that? :-)

That's what it says. :-)

Some sights inside the park.

Text, top pic: Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn grew the mangroves on August 17, 1994.

Text, bottom pic: On 14 August 1994, Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn gave initiative idea  to Mr. Sumet Tantivejkul to seek the proper area as well as to look for ways to preserve the mangrove forests in coastal areas which will provide a good ecosystem and natural balances. On 2 April 1998, Thanpuying Putrie Viravaidya was asked to restore the deteriorated soil condition in order to turn to area for recreation activity and ecosystem study.

Well, that's the side that makes you wanna yawn and stretch out your arms. But here's the exciting part.  Aside from it being educational, the place is also good for biking. Yes! That is, if you are the type who enjoys leisurely biking, then this is the place for you.  Sweat it out around the compound. Along the paved pathways, under the trees, by the beach, under the sun.  Let the wind blow your hair like crazy.  

Sorry, serious cyclists who are gaga over mountain bikes and road bikes, tuck your big gears away and go for the rental bikes. The cute ones.  There are tandem bikes, as well, if you care for that stuff.

That's the kind of bike being rented here.

If you get tired of biking, go up the lane where the bird tower stands. If you're lucky enough, you'd get to see a few of those eighty-something bird species that find solace in this green place. 

This place is for birders, too! 

Now if you don't really feel like biking, feel free to be one with nature on foot. In good comfy footwear. No high heels! Slap on some sunscreen, especially if you decide to come in the morning. Bring a bottle of water. And a small towel. 

This is the reason why one should be comfy-shod here.

The man-made bridge that has become the persona of the Sirindhorn Park.

Winding thoroughfares canopied by trees and creepers.

If you get hungry, there's a line of eateries outside, at the parking area.  There is a coffee shop where you can order hot or cold coffee as well as herbal tea. And there are several more stalls that sell lovely bonnets, wide-brimmed hats accentuated with ribbons, and souvenir t-shirts and other apparel.

By the way, why were we lost? We were looking for a palace inside the compound, the Mrigadayavan Palace, but failed to find one among the trees and the mangroves.  We wandered off and found ourselves heading far away from the central area.  Then we were back in the main road, outside the park, but still inside the military camp.  We were ambling toward the bend leading to the entrance and back at the parking area. Feeling tired and thirsty and hot and hungry after the long desultory "stroll",  we decided to park our heels, cool down a bit and just have our lunch at one of the stalls there, where we found the food we were served tasted really, really  good (was it because we were feeling tired and thirsty and hot and hungry???)  that we vowed to go back there someday soon to try other dishes.

This is it for now. Next trip to this park in the near future, for the purpose of biking. And finding that palace.

Loy Krathong: The First Experience

I had long been intrigued by Thailand's famous Loy Krathong Festival. I first heard of it some years back during my first visit to Thailand.  I didn't witness it because we had to leave weeks before  the festival was to be held then.

Having moved to Hua hin as a temporary resident,  I couldn't  help the excitement of finally being able to witness this cultural event for the first time.

Loy Krathong,, which happens in November with no specific date depending on the appearance of the full moon, is touted to be one of the two most important festivities in the whole of Thailand, the other being the Songkhran which happens in April.  

Googling for more understanding, I discover some important details about this much-talked-about happening.  Loy Krathong is translated in English as "the festival of lights".  There had been various folktales about who started it and how, but the most important thing is that the Thais do it annually as a spiritual thing: to thank the Water Goddess for the gift of the water.  Indeed there's a bounty of bodies of water in all of Thailand from the vast sea to the mountain springs, not to mention ponds, lakes and rivers, and then there are the natural  canals that run parallel to paved roads.

"Loy" means " to float", and "krathong" refers to any round objects decorated specifically for the ritual.  A krathong is decorated with banana foldings all around, and filled with flowers inside, along with a candle and some incense sticks.  At some point, the Thais used round styrofoam base because it is light and floats easily.   However, these days, krathongs have taken on various innovations leaning toward more eco-friendly concepts.  Coconut husks, banana trunks, bread and other organic materials are being used.

Traditional krathong made of coconut husk, banana leaves and colorful flowers.

Eco-friendly Krathong made from flour.

Traditional krathong of banana trunk, leaves and flowers,
 and an innovative one made of ice cream cones!
Photo courtesy of Jocyl Surdao

The ritual is very simple, actually.  One  lights the candle and the incense sticks, cups the krathong in his palms as he quietly says his prayers, and releases the krathong cafefully into the water. Supposedly, he must follow it with his eyes as it glides downstream or away from him. Probably in contemplation of the past and the future.  

Bye-bye, bad luck; hello good luck!

The sight of flickering lights and their reflections in the water lends magic to the evening, and one can't help but be reflective, indeed, as he gazes into the romantic picture laid out before him.

Photo by Jocyl Surdao

The pond looks dreamy as the krathongs sail away and their lights flicker,

 dancing with the soft evening breeze.

Aside from a prayer of thanks for the abundance of water, the Thais also pray for  better fortune in the coming days. And as they release the krathong, it is said that they are also releasing all the misfortunes or bad vibes that have  happened in the recent past.  The ritual is also meant to bring the family closer together as it is considered as a family event.  

On our way to Korsor Resort for dinner, we pass by  the Loy Krathong parade at Phetkasem Road.  It causes a little traffic,  but gladly, it is on the opposite direction. And being that, we are able to catch a glimpse  of each beautiful float and the beautiful ladies on top of each.  People, locals and tourists alike,  line up the middle of the road to watch and snap pictures.

At the  resort, which seems like a wonderful place for casual dining or coffee, we share a sumptuous dinner with a couple of friends. After dinner, we are asked to join in the traditional dance, which is fun!   I mean, you don't know the dance and you just mimic those who knew, and you don't really mind if you looked silly or not. Just wave your hands every which way. :-)

Dancing to the tune of Loy Krathong chant

After the dance comes the floating of krathongs.  Every diner gets one for free.  It is indeed an experience  to cherish.  

As mentioned earlier, Loy  Krathong is a family affair.  The other guests of the resort are families. And they would light and float krathongs together.   On our way home  later that evening, we fleet by sporadic groups of people, obviously families, hunched together as they light  and release beautiful krathongs  into the canals that run alongside the road.

A single lighted lantern slowly rises up into the dark sky.  It is a delight to see one, and more if there have been a hundrred. The Thais used to be generous with lanterns as these were part of the past Loy Krathong festivals, but the government recently issued a ban on lanterns for safety reasons. 

Hopefully, I would be able to experience this festival again, next time in a  beach, just to see another side of it.  Till next year! :-)

There's Jocyl, a former student of mine enjoying the festival in a faraway part of Thailand.
Three years, she says, and still enjoying it. So I'm looking forward to my second. :-)

Barefoot On the Beach

Mornings look promising for a daily walk in the beach. It's a beautiful beach, ideal for early morning or late afternoon long walks, briskly or leisurely, or for jogging.  One will surely have a good dose of exercise going back and forth this more-than-a-kilometer stretch of soft sand.

As soon as the sun rises, people go out to jog or walk in the beach or bathe in the sea. Some guests are already prepared to stretch out to soak in the sun.   Especially on weekends, lounge chaises, beach mats, towels and giant umbrellas are being readied early for the influx of guests coming from various parts of Thailand.  

Business starts as soon as people stream in.  These entrepreneurs make beach life  more interesting with their goods and services, i.e., food and drinks, massage, straw mats for rent, and horseback riding.  It's fun to walk barefoot in the beach, just be careful you don't step on something round, soft and sticky.

Kiteboarders pretty soon set out to sea to frolic with the strong wind and the rolling waves. There aren't many teenagers coming to this area so the sight of skim boarders  is wanting.  It probably isn't popular in this area because the guests who come here are mostly in their mature years, or young couples with their toddlers. Let's wait for the coming months and see if the story stays the same.

The beach is generally clean, but not without litter, too.  Plastic straws, cellophane and lots of elastic bands deck some areas particularly where there are vendors selling food.  

Various shells are washed ashore, but not really as abundant and as interesting as one finds on beaches back home.  We  found large jellyfish half-buried in the sand, too.

The beach runs parallel with Petchakasim Road, and in between buildings along the beach are alleys that lead you to the other side.  But not all alleys are accessible, as many of them pass through private propertiy, like the one in the picture below. That one passes through Baan San  Ploen and only residents and transients of the condominium units are allowed to pass through.

 After  your late afternoon stroll, you can exit through any of the public alleys and get to the road, cross over to the other side and find something to eat at the nightmarkets nearby. There are several nightmarkets along Petchakasim Road.  

Our next quest, the nightmarkets of Huahin. #